Ashbrook cheese is a raw cow's milk cheese made in Vermont at Spring Brook Farm, from milk given by cows who live just down the road and then aged for 10 months. It is semi-soft with a pinkish rind, pale yellow paste and a delicate layer of vegetable ash at the cheese's center. The flavor and the dense and pliable texture remind us happily of a Morbier. At its room-temperature best it is pleasantly pungent and creamy. This could be a favorite cheese.